Once a riverside getaway along the Meramec River, Times Beach, Missouri, became one of America’s most infamous ghost towns after dioxin contamination forced the evacuation of its entire population. This is the story of what happened to the town that disappeared.
By Jill Szoo Wilson
Every summer, my Aunt Stacy would take me to Six Flags in Eureka, Missouri. We’d leave Glendale, Missouri, and head west on Interstate 44, and somewhere along the way, before the rides and the funnel cakes, we’d pass a town where no one lived.
Stacy was only twelve years older than I was, so she always felt more like a big sister than an aunt. Picture 1980s wall bangs, scrunched socks, and a closet full of Hypercolor and Michael Jackson T-shirts. She was also a jokester.
Every time we passed the old houses of Times Beach, Missouri, Stacy told me to hold my breath.
There was something in the ground there, she’d say. A chemical. Bad enough that everyone had been forced out.
So I would hold my breath, cheeks puffed, watching the town slide by through the glass.
From the highway, the place looked frozen. Houses sagged under vines and overgrowth. Weeds broke through the streets. Nothing moved. It was a whole town abandoned to something I couldn’t see, and that was somehow worse than if I could. I had no idea what dioxin was or how a chemical could empty an entire town of every last person. I only knew the rule: when we reached Times Beach, you held your breath until you were safely past it.
I assume Stacy’s warning was mostly a joke, her way of leaning into the lore that had already grown up around the place in St. Louis. But to a kid in the backseat, Times Beach held a real and peculiar mystery. A ghost town beside the interstate, poisoned by something invisible, glimpsed for a few seconds through a car window on the way to roller coasters.
I didn’t know then that decades later, I’d go back on foot nearly every week.
It wasn’t until recently that I realized the trail I now walk regularly isn’t simply near the old town of Times Beach.
It is Times Beach.
The roads I had imagined buried beneath decades of history were still there beneath my feet. The woods I walked beside had once been backyards. The quiet stretches of pavement that seemed to lead nowhere had once led people home.
A $67.50 Dream on the Meramec: How Times Beach Began
The story starts with a newspaper subscription. In 1925, the St. Louis Star-Times ran a promotion: buy a six-month subscription for $67.50, and the paper would throw in a small lot of land along the Meramec River as a bonus. It worked. Families snapped up the riverside lots and built simple summer cabins, coming from St. Louis to swim in the Meramec, escape the summer heat, and spend weekends along the river. The community that sprang up took the paper’s name: Times Beach.

What began as a newspaper promotion gradually became a real community. Seasonal cabins gave way to year-round homes, and by the early 1980s, more than two thousand people lived there. There were neighbors and businesses, children and families, and streets whose names would survive long after the houses disappeared.
One problem never went away: the roads were dirt, and they were dusty.
The Dioxin Disaster That Emptied Times Beach
In 1971, the town hired a waste hauler named Russell Bliss to spray its dirt roads with used oil to keep the dust down. The city kept him under contract from 1972 to 1976. What residents didn’t know was that Bliss had also been paid to dispose of chemical waste from the Northeastern Pharmaceutical and Chemical Company in Verona, Missouri, a byproduct of the plant’s production of Agent Orange during the Vietnam War. He mixed that waste into the oil, then sprayed it on roads across the state, including in Times Beach.
The effects showed up elsewhere first. At Shenandoah Stables, more than 40 horses died after exposure to Bliss’s oil, and birds, cats, and dogs turned up dead near the arena. Investigators traced the contamination back to Bliss by 1974, but nobody yet understood how far it had spread or that a whole town had been living on top of it for years.

That changed in December 1982. The Meramec River flooded, and by the time the waters receded, EPA testing had found dioxin concentrations as high as 0.3 parts per million along the town’s entire road network. On December 23, the CDC and the Missouri Department of Health told residents the contamination made the town uninhabitable, with soil readings around 100 parts per billion, roughly 100 times the level the EPA then considered toxic.
It was two days before Christmas.
Follow-up testing by the EPA found levels 300 times the CDC’s safety threshold.
Two months later, on February 22, 1983, EPA Administrator Anne Gorsuch Burford announced that the federal government would buy out the entire town. The buyout covered 800 residential properties and 30 businesses at an estimated cost of $36.7 million, with the federal government contributing $33 million and the state covering the rest. At the time, the government wasn’t just cleaning up a dump site. It was purchasing an entire American town and closing it for good.
What Happened After Everyone Left
For years afterward, Times Beach sat frozen behind a fence: empty houses, overgrown lawns, streets with nowhere to go. This was the Times Beach of my childhood, the one I watched through the car window with my cheeks puffed and my breath held.
Then the EPA got to work on one of the largest dioxin remediation projects in the country’s history. An incinerator was built on-site, and over the course of the cleanup, it treated a total of 265,354 tons of dioxin-contaminated material, drawn not only from Times Beach but from 27 other eastern Missouri dioxin sites. The incinerator was dismantled once the work was finished, and the land was handed over to the State of Missouri in 1997.

Rather than sell the cleared land for development, Missouri turned it into a park. In October 1999, the former townsite reopened as Route 66 State Park. Two years later, in 2001, the EPA formally removed Times Beach from the Superfund National Priorities List.
Walking Through a Ghost Town at Route 66 State Park
This is what makes the site so interesting to visit today. You’re not walking through a generic state park; you’re walking through the actual streets of Times Beach.
The roads don’t feel like trails because they aren’t. They curve through the trees at the width of neighborhood streets, sometimes meeting at intersections where people once turned toward houses, businesses, and neighbors. If you didn’t know what you were looking at, you might never wonder why.
The Outer Loop Trail follows the former Times Beach streets of Riverside, Lincoln, and Blakey, and a portion of the trail near the main parking area sits on the historic Route 66 alignment itself.
Following the Inner Loop Trail from the trailhead, hikers pass a small wetland and then reach the Town Mound, where the physical remains of Times Beach’s demolished structures are buried. There is nothing ominous about it. Grass grows over the gentle slope, and without the sign explaining what lies beneath it, a visitor could walk past without giving it much thought. It’s a quietly strange landmark: a green hill that functions, in effect, as the town’s grave marker.
Fields of wild grass and brush now grow where evacuated residents’ homes once stood, and deserted streets still line the park, hinting at the community that used to be here. The park also supports more than 175 recorded bird species and forests of oak, hickory, river birch, cottonwood, and pine, home to deer and wild turkeys.
Across the Meramec River, the visitor center has its own connection to the vanished town. Built in 1935 along the original Route 66, the roadside restaurant first opened as the Bridgehead Inn, serving travelers crossing the river and passing through Times Beach. Over the decades, it became Steiny’s Inn in 1946, returned to the Bridgehead Inn name in 1972, and became the Galley West in 1980. Today, the same building serves as the Route 66 State Park Visitor Center, where exhibits preserve the history of both the Mother Road and the town that once stood across the river.
It’s also worth knowing that the EPA came back to check its work. In 2012, testing at the site concluded that soil samples from Route 66 State Park showed no significant health risks for park visitors or workers.
The cleanup held up.
Planning Your Visit to Route 66 State Park
One quirk of the park’s layout is worth knowing before you go. The main park grounds are accessible only from eastbound Interstate 44 at Exit 265, while the visitor center is reached from either direction at Exit 266. The two are separated by the Meramec River because the old Route 66 bridge that once connected them has been closed due to safety concerns. Plan on picking one side or building in a short drive between the two.
Trails and picnic areas (the former townsite): Reached from eastbound I-44 at Exit 265.
Visitor center (Route 66 and Times Beach exhibits, in the former Bridgehead Inn): Reached from either direction at I-44 Exit 266.
Hours: The park grounds are open daily from 7 a.m. to a half hour past sunset year-round. The visitor center is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily from March through October. It is generally closed from November through February, except during the second week of December for holiday shopping. Check current hours before visiting if the exhibits are your main goal.
Cost: Free to enter.
The old Route 66 bridge: Plans have been developed to rehabilitate the historic bridge for pedestrian and bicycle use, which would eventually reconnect the visitor center with the main park grounds.
What to bring: A bike or comfortable walking shoes. Many of the trails follow the old Times Beach roads and use paved or crushed-gravel surfaces, making much of the park accessible for casual walking and biking.
It’s an unusual kind of place. A state park whose origin story is a Superfund site isn’t something you find often, and that’s exactly what makes it worth the drive. Most parks show you nature. Times Beach shows you nature reclaiming something, one paved-over street at a time.
And the town I once held my breath to pass has become one of the places I go to breathe.



References
AllTrails. (n.d.). Best hikes and trails in Route 66 State Park. Retrieved June 30, 2026, from https://www.alltrails.com/parks/us/missouri/route-66-state-park
EBSCO Research Starters. (n.d.). Evacuation of Times Beach, Missouri. Retrieved July 3, 2026, from https://www.ebsco.com/research-starters/history/evacuation-times-beach-missouri
Missouri Department of Natural Resources. (2024, June 28). Times Beach dioxin contamination (Publication No. PUB2960). https://dnr.mo.gov/print/document-search/pub2960
Missouri State Parks. (n.d.). General information: Route 66 State Park. Retrieved July 3, 2026, from https://mostateparks.com/page/54997/general-information
O’Neil, T. (2010, December 5). A look back: Times Beach disappeared after 1982 flood. St. Louis Post-Dispatch.
Powell, W. (2012, December 3). Remember Times Beach: The dioxin disaster, 30 years later. St. Louis Magazine.
Route 66 State Park. (n.d.). Times Beach. theroute-66.com. Retrieved July 10, 2026, from https://www.theroute-66.com/times-beach.html
U.S. Department of Agriculture, National Agricultural Library. (n.d.). Description of Times Beach, Missouri, and the Times Beach Dioxin Research Facility [Special Collections exhibit]. Retrieved July 3, 2026, from https://www.nal.usda.gov/exhibits/speccoll/items/show/3712
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. (2025, December 11). A town, a flood, and Superfund: Looking back at the Times Beach disaster nearly 40 years later. https://www.epa.gov/mo/town-flood-and-superfund-looking-back-times-beach-disaster-nearly-40-years-later
Wills, L. (n.d.). Times Beach, Missouri, evacuated due to contamination with dioxin. Environment & Society Portal, Rachel Carson Center. Retrieved July 8, 2026, from https://www.environmentandsociety.org/tools/keywords/times-beach-missouri-evacuated-due-contamination-dioxin


